Today, I’d like to share my first impressions of a watch from the new Alexander Shorokhoff collection, called NEVA. I’ve just received it, so these impressions are truly fresh.
If you check the Alexander Shorokhoff webshop, you’ll see that the NEVA collection includes several different versions of dial colors, case types (steel or PVD), and straps. Each version is limited to just 49 pieces. However, at least until July 15, 2021, you won’t find this particular version—with a blue dial and an outer white ring—available in their shop.
The reason is that this specific model is being sold exclusively through Julius Kampmann’s webshop, www.Poljot24.de, until that date. It seems that Kampmann has a great relationship with AS, as this isn’t the first time they’ve granted him such privileges (see my review of the Poljot International Pobeda watch, for example).
So yes, I bought my watch there as well. (By the way, I’m a regular customer at Poljot24 and can strongly recommend both the store and Mr. Kampmann’s excellent service.)
Let’s start with a few basic facts. The watch has a diameter of 43.5 mm, a height of 11.5 mm, and a lug width of 22 mm. It comes in a stainless steel case, with sapphire glass on both sides.
All in all, it’s quite a large watch. And although pictures may suggest it’s a dress watch, in person it doesn’t really feel like one. That said, it doesn’t mean you can’t wear it as a dress watch—provided your wrist is big enough. Personally, I find it comfortable even under a shirt.
The movement is the Poljot 3105 hand-wound mechanical movement, essentially a Poljot 3133 chronograph movement without the chronograph module. This choice of movement is quite an interesting one. As you may know, it’s no longer in production. After the collapse of Poljot, the company Maktime took over the production of the 3133 movement family—but they eventually ceased production as well. This might explain why each NEVA version is so limited: the movements simply aren’t available in unlimited quantities.
Although Alexander Shorokhoff frequently uses ex-USSR or Russian movements in its watches, it’s not all that common to find these movements in models under the Alexander Shorokhoff brand itself—though it’s not unheard of either.
As far as I know, there are a few chronograph models with the Poljot 3133, one regulator model with the 3105, and two alarm models—Glocker and Tschaikovsky—featuring the Poljot 2612.1. (I might be missing some others.)
Watches with Russian movements have more commonly been released under the Poljot International brand or under the now-defunct Basilika label.
As we’ve come to expect from Alexander Shorokhoff, the 3105 movement is completely reassembled, gilded, and decorated—it’s far from movement in its original form.
At the moment, I can’t provide precise accuracy measurements, but once again it seems Shorokhoff has managed to get the best out of this movement. My first impression is that the watch runs very accurately.
Besides the movement, the most beautiful features of this watch are the stunning wavy guilloché dial and the seconds hand, which is shaped like an “N” (for Neva).
This unique seconds hand really draws attention. On the first day I wore the watch, I received several compliments specifically about this detail. I also appreciate how the Alexander Shorokhoff Uhrenmanufaktur name is positioned on the dial.
In general, I shouldn’t complain about the second and minute hands or the overall design of the watch. The hands are nicely made, and the “60” at the top of the dial is also well designed. But—in my opinion—all of this has been seen too often. Many watches from the AS Avantgarde series use the same hands and the same dial layout. It’s starting to feel repetitive, and too many models are just too similar.
Just to give you a sense of what I mean, here’s a picture where I’ve placed my AS Sixtythree model with the blue dial next to the new Neva. But of course, you could also argue—hey, they’re all part of the Avantgarde series, so they should have some similarities! The final verdict is up to you.
As usual, the watch is well built, featuring a quality leather strap (Kampmann also includes a Milanese bracelet with it) and comes packed in a standard AS wooden box.
The strap color is a bit questionable. The cream tone is quite interesting and pairs well with the dial color. However, it’s definitely not the best choice if you intend to wear the watch as a dress piece. On the other hand, it works well for a more sporty look.
What’s great about this watch is its versatility—it pairs nicely with several different straps, such as brown or dark blue leather, or various types of steel bracelets.
I’m sorry to say that I’ve also noticed one negative aspect. I was unpleasantly surprised to realize that the hands are not perfectly aligned. The misalignment is most noticeable at 6 o’clock, while at 12 it’s almost unnoticeable. This is something I’m not used to seeing on AS watches—not even on the lower-priced brands like Basilika or Poljot International.
I know, I know—you have to be a real watch freak to notice something like that. But hey, that’s what we are :) I also don’t know if this is just an issue with my particular watch or a general flaw. In any case, it’s definitely not a serious problem and could easily be fixed by your watchmaker. I’m just surprised it passed AS’s final quality control, which in my experience is usually very strict.
Now, let’s talk about the price. Although the watch is positioned on the lower end of the AS price range, it’s not exactly cheap compared to other AS models. It’s priced higher than, for example, the Byzantium, which uses an ETA 2824 automatic movement. So here we have a hand-wound Russian movement priced above an automatic ETA movement! And considering AS is not a budget brand to begin with, the base price starts around 1,200 EUR. Fortunately, Kampmann currently offers it for a more reasonable 1,050 EUR—including the additional bracelet and free shipping.
So, my final verdict: if the watch were just a bit cheaper (let’s say around 900 EUR), it would be a great buy. If you can wait for a discount somewhere—grab it!
Add comment
Comments