Hands-On Review: Zenith Pilot Type 20 Chronograph

Published on 24 December 2021 at 16:21

Even though Zenith released the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph almost three years ago, I wasn’t able to find a truly independent review of the watch when I was deciding whether to purchase it. There are, of course, plenty of introductory articles and videos, but many of them have a distinctly commercial tone. I decided to buy the watch anyway, and now it’s time to share my impressions.

The Pilot Type 20 line was created as a tribute to the Zenith Montre d’Aéronef, a watch originally issued sometime before the Second World War. The first models released were non-chronograph versions (surprisingly powered by the Sellita SW300 movement), which were soon followed by chronograph versions. Since the chronographs are equipped with Zenith’s in-house El Primero 4069 movement, choosing the chronograph version was an easy decision for me.

There are several dial colors and case materials available in both chronograph and non-chronograph models. Personally, I found the blue and green dials in bronze cases the most intriguing. In the end, the green dial with a bronze case won out over the blue one for me. So this review will focus on my specific choice.

So, let's start with the basic facts. As mentioned, the watch has a bronze case, and its diameter is 45mm, excluding the crown and pushers. I’m sure this information—along with a photo showing the oversized crown—might suggest the watch is massive and almost unwearable. But the truth is quite the opposite!

Okay, okay, I admit I’m biased because I like big watches, but the design of this one—with its round shape and excellent lug placement—makes it wear much smaller on the wrist. Anything smaller just wouldn’t work as well.

As for the bronze case itself, I’ve come across two completely different claims: one article said Zenith has treated the case to prevent patina development, while another stated that each watch will develop its own unique patina—which, after all, is the whole point of bronze watches, isn’t it? Personally, I hope mine will develop a nice patina over time.

The crown is large, but it's rounded in such an elegant way that its size doesn’t feel obtrusive at all. The chronograph pushers are also very refined—almost invisible, in fact. They don’t visually add any bulk to the watch, and together with the crown, they form a cohesive and attractive overall design.

The pushers are ribbed, which provides a better grip. I do have a small complaint, though. The top pusher, which starts the chronograph, is quite stiff and has what I’d describe as a “false first click.” When you press it gently, you hear a click, but nothing happens. You then have to push firmly all the way in before the chronograph hand actually starts. The same thing happens when stopping the chronograph.

Admittedly, this prevents the chronograph from being started accidentally—which is a good thing—but on the other hand, that initial click can give the false impression that the chronograph has started or stopped, causing you to miss the precise moment you intended to capture.

The dial is simply beautiful. The green background appears to fade from the outer edges toward the center, creating a subtle gradient effect. The large white numerals look like they’re applied onto the dial, adding a nice sense of depth. The central hands are rose gold–gilded to match the bronze case, while the subdial hands are not—they’re silver with white tips. Perhaps gilding those as well would have been too much; it’s hard to say.

To be honest, I didn’t even notice the color difference at first, but the more I look at it, the more the inconsistency starts to bother me. If the subdial hands were simply white, for instance, they would at least match the overall aesthetic more consistently.

The dial is marked with “MONTRE D’AÉRONEF” beneath the ZENITH logo, and there’s an orange “PILOT” inscription above the 6 o’clock position—yet another color on the dial. Still, the orange does echo the warm tone of the rose gold hands or the bronze case to some extent; without that connection, the dial might have ended up looking too busy with so many different colors.

What really impressed me is the lume. It’s applied to all the hour numerals, the hour and minute hands, and even to the tip of the chronograph seconds hand. As you can see in the photo, the lume shines brightly—and most importantly, it maintains a strong glow throughout the entire night. I’m confident it lasts at least eight hours—that’s the longest I’ve been able to test it so far.

I do find it a bit puzzling that the chronograph seconds hand is lumed while the chronograph minute counter is not. This basically means that if you're timing something in the dark, you'd better finish within one minute. :)

Another detail I find interesting is that, although the El Primero movement typically includes a date complication, Zenith chose to omit it on this model. Personally, I think that was a good decision. The large Arabic numerals give the dial a strong pilot-watch identity, and the chronograph layout provides a clean, symmetrical appearance. Adding a date window anywhere would disrupt the overall balance and visual clarity of the design.

The watch comes by default with two calfskin leather straps—one in green for a more dressy look, and one in camouflage for a sportier feel. Both straps are lined with rubber and are, at least initially, very stiff. And—they’re quite short! With my 19.4 cm wrist, I already use the second hole, so these straps won’t work well for wrists larger than 20 cm. That’s a bit surprising, given that the 45mm case size clearly suggests the watch is meant for larger wrists.

Each strap comes with its own titanium pin buckle, which is great—you don’t have to swap the buckle every time you change the strap. What I don’t like is that the bronze watch doesn’t come with a bronze buckle. For me, that’s a clear oversight. I’ve owned—or should I say, used to own—several microbrands with bronze cases, and they almost always included matching bronze buckles. So I’d expect a brand like Zenith to do the same.

But I have to give Zenith credit where it’s due: the strap-changing system is fantastic. You don’t need any tools—both straps have a quick-release button that detaches the strap from the lug. Attaching a strap is even easier—just push it onto the lug and it clicks into place. Brilliant. I must admit I hadn’t seen this system before. These types of straps would be especially useful on vintage watches with fixed lugs.

The lug width is 23mm, which is a somewhat uncommon size, so finding replacement straps can be a bit more difficult. That’s a shame, since the watch’s design lends itself to a lot of creative strap combinations.

The caseback is also made of titanium (which maybe justifies the titanium buckles?). Personally, I would have preferred a see-through caseback to showcase the beautiful El Primero movement, but the engraved image of an old airplane is quite charming as well. The watch is rated for 100 meters of water resistance—though I haven’t tested that myself.

As mentioned earlier, the watch lends itself well to different strap combinations, and by changing the strap’s color or style, you can easily alter the character of the watch. Along with the original straps, I also received a rubber strap in sand-colored camouflage. In addition, I purchased an olive green NATO strap and experimented with various brown leather straps.

Here are a few examples:

I should probably write a lot about the movement—but I won’t. It’s simply perfect and very precise. During the first week of wearing the watch without taking it off, it lost only 1 second compared to my phone. The power reserve is 50 hours, and the winding is smooth and quiet.

The watch comes in a huge box—way too big for my taste. I understand the prestige-oriented approach, but such a large box just isn’t practical for the end customer.

The retail price for a new watch at an official boutique in the EU is between €7,500 and €8,000. However, it can be found for significantly less on Chrono24—the cheapest new model available in the EU goes for around €5,500. Since Zenith watches tend to lose value fairly quickly, buying pre-owned is often an even smarter option. I went that route myself and bought a pristine, six-month-old watch from Watchfinder.

At the €5,000–€5,500 price point, I can honestly say the watch offers excellent value for money. You’re getting a very attractive timepiece powered by a high-quality in-house movement.

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